Langermooser Gewurztraminer, 2023

All the lychee and rose you expect from Gewürztraminer, minus the sweetness you might fear: this one from a family farm north of Zurich finishes dry.

Lychee, rose petal and a twist of grapefruit, then the surprise: it finishes dry. Gewürztraminer often leans sweet and heavy, and this keeps the perfume without the syrup, plump fruit running into a long finish. It comes from the Zahner family in Truttikon, a farming village in the Zurich wine country with a clear view to the Alps. Waldemar and Suzanne Zahner started here in 1963 with one abandoned vineyard; Niklaus Zahner and his family now run it. Made in steel tanks, so the fruit does the talking.