Sassocarlo, 2022

A Tuscan white with real grip — golden, savoury and a bit wild. For anyone who drinks red most of the time.

Rossella Bencini Tesi runs Fattoria di Bacchereto, a former Medici hunting estate in the hills of Carmignano that her grandfather bought in the 1920s, with winemaker Marco Vannucci. Only eight of its 167 hectares are vines, farmed biodynamically; the rest is olives, woods and chestnut groves. Sassocarlo is the white: Trebbiano with a little Malvasia, wild-fermented, aged more than a year in large barrels and bottled unfiltered. Golden in colour, with savoury structure and enough acidity to keep it lively.