Sta. Rita Hills Chardonnay, 2021

Salty, tangy California Chardonnay, nowhere near the big buttery stereotype: candied citrus peel, nectarine and a sea-spray edge.

Sandhi is the Santa Barbara label of sommelier Rajat Parr and winemaker Sashi Moorman, made in Lompoc and built on a dislike of overripe, overoaked Chardonnay. In 2021, 90% of the fruit came from their own Domaine de la Côte vineyards, about 11 km from the Pacific, blended with Hines Family Estate. Wild yeast, eight months in big 500-litre barrels, six more in tank. Dense fruit, candied citrus peel, nectarine, sea salt and a hint of spice, then a briny, blazing acidity.