PVG Les Noyer Chardonnay, 2023

Jura grapes, Burgundy hands. Pierre-Vincent Girardin trucks the fruit from one walled vineyard of old vines back to his Meursault cellar, and makes it fresh and fruit-led rather than nutty.

Pierre-Vincent Girardin started making wine in Meursault at 21. After a tiny 2021 harvest he went looking in the Jura and found Rotalier: Le Noyer is a single walled vineyard of 0.8 hectares at 470 metres, Chardonnay over 60 years old on limestone and clay. The grapes travel to Meursault to be made, which costs them the Côtes du Jura name, so it is labelled Vin de France. Wild yeast, larger barrels half of them new, and a style that stays fresh and fruity rather than nutty.