Alvas, 2019

Six old Sardinian white grapes left on their skins for nearly three weeks, so it pours hazy amber with real grip.

Gianfranco Manca was a baker in Sardinia's hilly centre — Panevino means 'bread wine' — when his uncle's bakery came with a few neglected plots of old bush vines. Alvas blends the island's own white grapes, Nuragus, Vernaccia, Retallada and more, grown on schist and left on their skins for around 18 days, the way a red is made. It pours hazy and amber. Powerful, with grippy tannins and lively acid; pear, spice and nuts, orange flower and apricot skin.