Vinu Pi Ostriche, 2024

Grillo from a vineyard about 30 metres from the Sicilian coast, and it tastes like it: lemony and a little salty.

A collaboration between Nino Barraco, the Marsala grower with a knack for capturing the sea in a bottle, and Giorgio De Maria, the Sydney-based importer who has brought much of Italy's natural wine to Australia. The name is in Sicilian dialect. The Grillo comes from Barraco's vineyard at Petrosino, roughly 30 metres from the shore on sandy soil, and is raised in a mix of barrels and cement tanks. Zesty lemon and preserved lemon with a kiss of salt; textural, with a mineral finish.