Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru ‘En Caradeux’, 2023

Yellow fruit, orange blossom and citrus peel, with a salty edge. Premier cru Chardonnay from the hill that looks across at Corton-Charlemagne.

En Caradeux is a premier cru slope in Pernand-Vergelesses, facing east at 250 to 300 metres on clay and limestone, directly across from the Corton-Charlemagne hill. Mark Haisma, the Australian who left Yarra Yering for Burgundy, presses the bunches whole and raises the wine in small French barrels. In the glass: yellow-fleshed fruit, orange blossom and citrus peel, a creamy body pulled tight by lively acidity and a saline streak, then a long citrus finish. 2023 ripened late, after a sunny end to August.