Chassagne-Montrachet, 2023

Chassagne from an Australian who spent a decade at Yarra Yering before setting up in Burgundy, made from grapes he buys and vinifies himself.

A decade at Yarra Yering came before Mark Haisma started making wine in Burgundy in 2009. He buys the grapes and vinifies them himself. His Chassagne is tiny: in 2022 it was three barrels, one of them from the premier cru Maltroie. 2023 looked grim until late-August sun brought proper ripeness to a full crop. Direct and nearly chiselled, it grows more complex in the glass and finishes wide.