Chambolle-Musigny, 2022

Perfume first, then a broad, open mouthful that stays light on its feet. A village Chambolle from two parcels, made by an Australian who moved to Burgundy.

Mark Haisma spent a decade making wine at Yarra Yering under Bailey Carrodus before moving to Burgundy in 2009. He buys grapes from growers he knows and makes them in his cellar in Gilly-lès-Cîteaux. This 2022 joins two Chambolle parcels, Echezeaux and Chardannes. It leads with a heady perfume, part of it from whole bunches (grapes fermented with their stems), then fills the mouth: broad, open and easy, with an elegant finish. 2022 was warm, but the vines shut down to protect themselves and kept their freshness.