Confrerie, 2015

Vin jaune: Savagnin left in barrel for years under a film of yeast, never topped up. Nutty, savoury and like nothing else on the shelf.

Lucien Aviet, known around Arbois as 'Bacchus', named it for the confrères, his most loyal customers; his son Vincent runs the cellar now. Savagnin from grey marl is picked by hand, then left in old barrels for about seven years under a veil of yeast, a living film that protects the wine while it slowly turns nutty and savoury. It starts broad and round, fresh and rich at once. The finish keeps fanning out.