Varrons Vielle Vignes, 2020

A Chardonnay that tastes of salt and stone rather than butter, from vines planted in 1922 in France's Jura mountains.

Old-vine Chardonnay from the Jura, the hilly region east of Burgundy, made by Jean-Francois Ganevat, whose family has farmed here since 1650. It spent four years in old barrels with nothing added. Citrus peel, yellow apple and hazelnut with a wisp of smoke. A salty, stony streak runs right through to a long finish. Full in the mouth but taut rather than rich.