Grand Teppes Vielle Vignes, 2018

Chardonnay from vines planted in 1919, rich but salty and bright rather than buttery. Made by one of the names French sommeliers queue for.

Chardonnay from a south-facing slope in the Jura, planted in 1919 by Jean-Francois Ganevat's grandfather. Four years in big old barrels has given it real weight: hay, chamomile, lemon zest and baked apple, with a honeyed, spicy edge. Bright acidity and a salty, stony finish stop it feeling heavy. Nothing added, nothing taken out.