Palo Blanco, 2024

Salty, stony white from hundred-year-old vines on a volcano in the Canary Islands - more squeeze of lemon over wet rock than anything fruity.

A dry white from more than century-old vines in the black volcanic soil of northern Tenerife, grown as long braided ropes of wood. Citrus peel, white flowers and crushed rock, with a little smoke and green pear. Tight and fresh in the mouth, with very little sweet fruit and a chalky, salty finish that hangs on.