Saumur Blanc, 2022

Dry Loire white with real weight to it, satiny and smoky, but the acidity keeps it bright. Closer to serious white Burgundy than anything crisp and simple.

A dry, weighty Chenin Blanc from Brézé in the Loire, made by Antoine Foucault, whose father and uncle ran the famous Clos Rougeard. Lemon oil, spring flowers, almond and a flinty, smoky edge. It is satiny and dense in the mouth, with bright acidity that keeps it lively and a firm, mineral finish. It was aged for up to three years in a cold cellar before release, and it will keep developing for years yet.