Vouvray Sec, 1997

A dry white from 1997, aged in a cellar dug into the hill beneath its own vineyard, from a family on that slope since 1712.

A dry Chenin Blanc from 1997, made by Catherine Dhoye-Deruet on a small Vouvray estate that has been in her family since 1712, and aged in cellars dug into the hill under the vineyard. Its sweet sibling from the same slope and year shows apricot, honeysuckle and pear. Expect that fruit here without the sugar, deepened by nearly thirty years into honeyed and nutty tones, held together by Chenin's natural acidity.