Les Chassagnes, 2018

Jura white kept in wood for six years but topped up the whole time, so it stays fresh. Nutty and full, with a salty finish.

Six years in big old barrels, kept full to the brim the whole time so the wine never turns sherry-like. This is Savagnin from Tony Bornard in Pupillin, in the Jura. It comes from a big, healthy vintage and has nothing added. Hazelnut and almond lead, with grapefruit and ripe yellow fruit behind them in a full, savoury mouthful.