Smith's Vineyard, 2024

For anyone who thinks they don't like Chardonnay: no butter at all, just citrus, flint and a nutty richness, from Beechworth vines planted in 1978.

Chardonnay from a vineyard planted in 1978, high up in Beechworth on granite and red shale. It starts quiet, with flint and nutmeg, then opens into nectarine, lemon and grapefruit peel, with a touch of mushroom. Silky and nutty through the middle with bright, mouth-watering acid. There is none of the buttery style here.